The wine drinks far more richly than its 12.5% alcohol would suggest. In fact, it seems to be constantly changing. At one moment it feels utterly pale, and then looking at it from a different angle there is saturation. It feels sublimely delicate and then later it’s all power. A smell of cedar, incense and dark roses floats over everything. At first the wine swells with richness, but not the richness of the South. This is a mountain wine. Its the sparse richness of wild strawberries and raspberries alongside a dusty trail, or plums in a neglected thicket. It alludes to sugar, but then as the swelling hits a peak, the coolness, structure and acidity comes. The finish of the wine tempers everything. There is mint, hyssop, matsutake and stones cooled by a stream. It is taut and full of tannic power.